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Mt. Baker Wilderness, Washington
August 27 - September 10, 2022
Mount Baker Wilderness is a spectacular, almost secret, undeveloped dreamworld - I highly recommend! We were incredibly lucky on this trip, since a big forest fire started about 20 miles away in the North Cascades National Park on August 23rd, and smoldered more as time went on. We talked to the ranger before we left and made some back-up plans, but he assured us the fire was under control. By the time we came home, 4 more fires had started and even Seattle had a red haze hanging over it. It was just last year that we had to switch plans at the last minute because of a forest fire. I fear this beauty will disappear forever soon. See it while it’s here!
What it takes to get out in the middle of nowhere from the plane to the car to the mountains…
We left Seattle early Sunday morning to scout out a dispersed camping spot right by Mount Baker and we found such a great place - (Forest Road 3070, you heard it here first haha.) Old mossy forest with the North Fork of the Nooksack River flowing right behind us. It was difficult to unwind at first, especially since Judith’s passing is so recent :( But this was the best place to heal that we could ever have chosen. Sooooo peaceful. A little too peaceful - there were barely any sounds of birds or other animals in these forests, very eerie.
We had to bushwhack our way down to the river from our first night’s site - I can’t believe we didn’t get poison ivy.
VIDEO: Nooksack River
It was spectacular! View of a snow covered Mt. Sefrit and the most beautiful rocks you can imagine. Each and every one had such a unique quality I gave up thinking of taking any home.
River otter tracks
Yuk Yuk Yuk
The other direction with logging patches.
The Forest Road itself also serves as a snowshoeing and cross country skiing trail system in the winter. Cool old tin signs on the trees pop up every so often. We spent the first night exploring this beautiful silent road until dinner time.
Our new cooking gear: the Kelly Kettle :) It has a hole through the center, and you fill it with water which is contained on the sides. Heats up so fast, and it whistles when it’s done :)
After dinner entertainment
VIDEO: The next day we took the site next door, which was waaay better and had easy access to the river. It was so gorgeous we stayed there the whole day just exploring.
Our sittin’ spot where we laid our burdens by the riverside…
That drinkable water aint gonna collect itself.
Otter was here
You can see the smoke from the fires starting in the back mountains. It was soooo hot and dry the entire time - only one day wasn’t sunny and completely cloudless. Temps in the high 80s and low 90s, it really felt like a desert.
Magic hour in the mountain forest <3
Morning in the mountain forest :) The next day was one of the most exciting hikes we have ever taken - Chain Lakes trail. It was a spectacle! I don’t think we have ever hiked in such a cluster of tall mountains before.
Big chunk of solid ice at the top.
Mt Baker is the snow covered god in the background. I love that mountain.
The smoke was really starting to get thick.
It was so weird to be sooooo hot but to see snow and ice all around.
We made it to our camp! Mazama Lakes…
One of our best camps ever. When I got there I was THRILLED, and didn’t really notice how I was batting away deer flies.
But very soon we did realize it and it was AWFUL. Even though it was in the low 90s, we had to keep covered up with long sleeves. And that wasn’t enough - if you didn’t move there would be about 20 swarming all around your head with that maddening buzzing sound so I had to tie a ground sheet on my head like a cape and Aaron his shirt. It was MISERABLE. And it was so hot we didn’t want to move. We planned to make this a 2-night stay, but left the next morning. It was gorgeous, tho :)
VIDEO: When the tent was cool enough, we stayed in there. The flies buzzed off the inside of the fly like insane animals.
Even a grasshopper got in on the action.
But we were able to enjoy ourselves - we saw a Ptarmigan and its family :)
This was the toilet, about 1/4 mile from our camp haha.
This is Table Mountain as the sun is beginning to set. I couldn’t help take pics as this magnificent rock got darker, it is such a powerful experience to behold. Plus, the darker and cooler it got the more the flies went away. By the time the stars came out, we were laying on the sheet I was using as a cape holding hands and looking at the stars. Though the night was clear, the smoke made it so you couldn’t see the whole Milky Way.
The next morning we packed up for the walk back. At first I hoped the flies had gone away since there wasn’t as many, but as soon as the sun started warming they started swarming. HORRIBLE :( But an absolute dream of a walk back.
The path to the creek where we got water
The smoke was getting worse :(
Marmot pal
I had a last-minute idea, since I was so sad to not have had a campfire yet. You can’t have fires in dispersed camping or on backcountry trails (for obvious reasons) BUT there were several Forest Service campgrounds that still allowed fires. One of them, Silver Fir, was right at the bottom of the only road up to the mountains. I imagined it a crowded RV campground but it was the opposite! A sizable campground but with only 21 well spaced tent sites, a handful occupied. We got a double site and had the place almost to ourselves!
The first fire we have had in 2 years. It was a shame it was so hot out, I’m not the hugest fan of having a fire when it isn’t cold. But still… smelled and looked good.
VIDEO: I experienced the sounds and sights of fire and rushing river simultaneously for the first time ever. The above is a video, the “play” arrow is kinda hidden.
There was an amazing clutch of mossy trees right next to us.
VIDEO: The trees around our site
And we had the river to ourselves :) SOOO peaceful. There were little froggies everywhere.
VIDEO: The trail to the river
Damn we were dirty tho
The next day we opted for another day in Silver Fir, and went for a hike on a trail right across the road from the campground. The beauty of this place is unparalleled.
Plants as big as my legs.
VIDEO: An incredible tree.
The next day we took a very hot hike on the Bagley Lakes trail. The smoke was now visible on the horizon like a bomb went off :(
I love when I see Aaron in his camping vest. I got it for him for Christmas when I was back in Chicago with my folks, and my dad tried it on for me. I will always think about how he once wore that vest, however briefly :)
We gave up on that trail, as the sun was UNFORGIVING, and we were starting to get burnt. Of course we didn’t have sunscreen, and there is no store anywhere near this place. I can’t believe how undeveloped this incredible land is, I hope it stays this way. It was Labor Day weekend and we only saw people in the most popular trailhead point. The campgrounds were practically empty. Not many people visit this place. We took advantage of that and stayed for a 3rd night at the ghost town Silver Fir campground. Such a gorgeous place in itself.
Bridge leading to our site
VIDEO: Awesome trees
Dusk in the forest
I am glad I spend so many of my days like this.
The next day was our half-way point so we can FINALLY shower. We drove to the coast and stayed in Bellingham. But since there was so much time before check-in, we picked up some lunch and ate it by the ocean :) We took a neat little hike to Teddy Bear Cove and looked over to the island of Vancouver.
The next morning we were on our way back to the forest, this time south of Mt. Baker at Baker Lake. Since it was Labor Day weekend, I expected the place to be mobbed with people but again it was the opposite. There was nothing even close to a store on the entire lake and the surrounding forests. The West side of the lake is one road dotted with 5-6 small Forest Service campgrounds and a few trailheads. The East side is one long trail with no roads at all. The campgrounds were largely empty, the lake was free of people for the most part, and we didn’t even see many cars driving down the road. It was pure bliss!
We stayed at Boulder Creek campground, a small GORGEOUS campground with 10 well spaced sites on the river, and a great view of Mt. Baker. There were only 2 other people there for the 3 days we camped. Glorious peace. A little scary, since bears and cougars have been spotted in the surrounding campgrounds, but the sound of a rushing river can do a lot to quiet the mind at night with only a thin layer of material separating you from wild animals.
VIDEO: The trail to the site
Two of my favorite things: camping and Aaron <3
Our new little titanium kettle. Weighs nothing, I love it.
This was the first and only day we saw anything like rain, even tho it was only a sprinkle. It felt so good after feeling like we were in a desert for a week.
The rushing Boulder Creek behind our site was AWESOME! Much bigger than the other river we were on, and smelled slightly of sulfur. White cloudy water leaves patches of clay between the red rocks.
And great views of Mt. Baker, when the clouds allow :)
We spent the day walking around this fantastic wild scene, right in the campground.
The next day we went on a delightful little hike, Shadow of the Sentinels. An incredible walk through ancient looking tangles of old-growth forests. It is full of wonder and delicious scents.
VIDEO: This tree is 700 years old!
What our tent looks like at night when there is a light on. Neat.
We woke up the next day with a clear view of Mt. Baker…
… and a completely smoke-filled view in the other direction. The wind had officially made the rare decision to blow from the East. Yikes.
Otter was here.
Centipede was here.
We decided to check out the Baker Lake trail, which we planned on spending the last 2 nights on. I’m so glad we did! Even though the stone road leading to the trailhead is terrible and filled with bathtub-sized potholes. We were able to spend the day in an amazing forest, and scout out which camp looked the best. There were only 2 people there, among more than 10 sites. It was such a lovely day.
VIDEO: Jays screaming at me at the beginning of the trail.
Neat little bridge!
It was the smokiest day yet - we could smell it AND see it in the forest we were walking in :(
This tree was impossibly tall and good looking.
Baker Lake is a gorgeous trail!
The next morning we made our way down the trail again packed and ready to stay 2 nights :)
We scored the best site! Though, there were only a handful of people there and plenty of space to camp.
Aaron immediately went for a dip.
Our own little beach with a hand-chopped ladder
Is there a better campfire view? Snow covered Mt. Shuksan in the background.
Beautiful Baker in the afternoon light
Underwater tree
Ginat toppled tree, Aaron for size.
The water on one side of the cove was bright green-blue - so pretty!
VIDEO: Views of the big guys from our camp
Mt Shuksan at sunset
VIDEO: Views of the big guys at sunset
VIDEO: This is, in my opinion, heaven.
The next morning we put on our day packs and and took a hike about 2 miles further on the Baker Lake trail.
Reflection of Mt. Baker
We came back to our camp to an incredibly smokey sky - the smokiest of the whole trip. It all depends on the wind… the fire itself wasn’t growing, the smoke is what keeps moving around. One minute it’s smokey as hell and you can smell it strongly, the next hour it’s clear as a bell. The fire is to the East of us, and in normal times the winds blow from the west. Bad luck… or good luck? I think we got out just in time, as many other fires have also started since we left. By the time it got dark, the sky cleared up.
The next morning was smokey again, but we were on our way out. It felt TERRIBLE leaving, I really do love this place sooo much. As well as the now-on-fire North Cascades to the East. I am happy we were able to explore that land now that it seems to be disappearing into the air.
Before leaving completely, we stopped to eat our first non-dehydrated meal in a week in the super neat teeny town of Concrete. Their restaurant on the Main Street was a blast out of several pasts. LOVED IT. Old Western towns always get me :)
After spending the night re-packing in Seattle and having another glorious fresh meal, we made our way back East. The source of the smoke from all the fires we were second-handedly experiencing is seen in the video below, ulp. Terrifying, so huge like bombs going off. Our forests are in danger, people.
VIDEO: The fires in the North Cascades as seen from our plane back home :(